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Palermo is Sicily's cultural, economic and tourism capital, and has been thriving for over 2,700 years. With such a colorful, ambitious and varied past, Sicily - an autonomous region of Italy - has its own personality, expression and cuisine. We were energized and engaged by what we found.

Not far from our apartment and across the street from the famous Piazza Pretoria was this small cafe where we had coffee and pastry almost daily. This stunning woman was a bit of a grump when we first met her. In fact, her nickname between us was "lady no-smile." That is, until we gave her one of our Retire Early Lifestyle hats.

We had no idea this taverna was here... until we did. Walking past this corner eatery often, tucked in an alley that led directly to our apartment, we overlooked this place because it didn't really have a street presence. We simply got lost in the chaos that is Palermo and just didn't notice this gem. Until... one day we thought we might take this little alleyway at the left of our apartment and find out where it led. Well, it brought us to one of the best restaurants we experienced in Palermo!

Palermo, Sicily has a few basilicas, but the most famous is likely the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It's a truly stunning building with a complex history, reflecting the various cultures that have influenced Palermo over the centuries. We arrived on a beautiful sunny morning to see this massive structure which has survived centuries of invasions, plagues, renovations and politics.

Before we came to Italy, and certainly before we made it to Sicily, we were told that the pizza was amazing. We saw pizzerias everywhere, but I couldn't imagine eating pizza more than once a week... maybe. As an ongoing meal choice during our entire stay? Not a chance. I mean, how many pepperoni and cheese pizzas can one eat? Our minds were about to be blown.

All over the world, port access in a country has determined its historical and economic fate. It is no different for the deep water port in Palermo, Sicily which has experienced trade and commerce for centuries and through many cultures. World War II was not kind to Palermo city and its port, but today this area is modern and beautiful.

Billy and I love to discover hidden gems right off the main streets, and A to' Casa is a funky jewel. It's quirky, lively, friendly and also relaxed. The reason we came to this little bar/restaurant, is because it was near the hubbub of the main streets, but without the hassles. Let's take a look.

After only 5 hours of sleep the next morning, and after a marvelous breakfast, a driver from the hotel took us directly to the train station in Palermo. Here we purchased First Class tickets on TrenItalia to Cefalu, our next stop. We walk a short distance from the station - again down lots of steps – and get to our apartment where we will be staying for 7 nights. The apartment is gorgeous.

Sicilians love their high quality food, and not far from where we were staying was this massive grocery - even more varied than Lidl - where one could literally get lost. Everything you could think of, and in all categories were piled high in each section.

Cefalu is a beautiful Sicilian beachside town with history recorded since ancient times. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans have all left their mark upon this city. The architecture, the cuisine and the human DNA all tell a story. The allure of Cefalu spans the ages. Well this night, we simply wanted to enjoy a happy hour and the peacefulness that this lovely area exudes.

Just an hour out of Palermo by train, is Sicily's best beach, the town of Cefalu. Cefalu boasts a dramatic backdrop with the Rocca di Cefalu towering over the long crescent beach, and the crystal-clear turquoise waters and golden sands create a picture-perfect scene. We had to go.

Nestled on Sicily's coastline, Cefalu is a treasure trove of beauty, with stunning scenery and an international beach scene. It's where the beautiful people hang out. But Cefalu offers more than just sun and sand. Atop a dramatic rocky outcrop known as La Rocca, you'll find the intriguing Castello di Cefalu, also called Castello della Rocca. While not a complete fairytale castle today, Castello di Cefalu whispers...

Cefalu, a captivating coastal town gracing Sicily's north coast, is a photographer's dream. Today, our adventure took us to the Cathedral, followed by a relaxing coffee break in the vibrant Piazza del Duomo, the heart of Cefalu.

Cefalu is an international gem that captures hearts with its exquisite beaches, rich history, and undeniable charm. This upscale town seamlessly blends its medieval past with modern amenities. Today, Billy and I are taking a pleasant 25-minute stretch from Cefalu's vibrant downtown area towards the picturesque harbor.

The Italian term for a seaside promenade is lungomarino. Cefalu is considered to have some of the best beaches in Sicily, so this lungomarino - which follows the coastline - offers attractive scenic views. Our apartment is not far from the sea, so we saw these charming views daily. Have a look for yourself.

Leaving behind the charming and historical town of Cefalu, we boarded a train towards our rented apartment in Catania. The scenic journey unfolds surprisingly lush, fertile landscapes showcasing the beauty of Sicily. Catania, Sicily's second-largest city, has a rich history predating even the Greeks and Romans. Today, it's renowned for its stunning Baroque architecture, offering a glimpse into its fascinating past.

To be truthful, we really aren't tour people. However, a friend recommended this Sicilian Coast Bus Tour that is a hop-on, hop-off ride between Catania and Aci Trezza, a little over 9 kilometers away. This stretch of coastline is known as the Riviera dei Ciclopi and is steeped in Greek mythology. After all, Greece is just over 400 miles away, and at one time ruled what is today known as Sicily.

We were cruising along the picturesque eastern coast of Sicily on a tour bus, leaving behind the bustling energy of Catania. Our destination was Aci Castello, a charming town guarding a hidden gem – an 11th-century Norman Castle. Steeped in history, this castle was originally built upon an even older Greek fortification, and it has undergone centuries of expansion and reinforcement. The days of military might are only whispers of the past.

Billy decided he wanted his own adventure, and struck up a conversation with a local. A very interesting stranger indeed. 90-year old Francisco was just a boy during WWII. The Allies bombed his home town to smithereens and eventually chased the Germans out of Sicily. Professor Francisco was a living relic of that time period.

Dominating Piazza del Duomo, the Cathedral of Saint Agatha stands as a testament to Catania's enduring spirit. Sharing the square with the iconic Amenano Fountain, this majestic building has been destroyed and rebuilt several times due to earthquakes and eruptions of nearby Mount Etna.

If you are looking for an authentic Osteria experience away from the tourist crowds in Catania, look no further than A Putia do Calabrisi Restaurante. This is a local favorite nestled outside the city center and it offers a legitimate Catanese dining experience, perfect for adventurous FOODIES and curious travelers. Definitely not-to-be-missed.

Catania's fish market, known locally as "A Piscaria," is the heart of the city. It’s loud, it’s surprising, and it’s real. You'll experience colors, fragrances, and shouts from vendors that come together in a picturesque way. The Catania Fish Market, or La Pescheria, is a vibrant and bustling hub of activity that offers a truly authentic Sicilian experience. Ya gotta go see it.

As we sauntered around, we came upon some windows looking into a large room with a sign that said: Radio Zammu. Cool. We have been interviewed on local radio stations all over the US and in Thailand. Wouldn't it be wonderful if we could get on-air here too?

Taking a "hop-on, hop-off tour bus" from the city of Catania, we proceeded up the Cyclops Riviera but stopped at Aci Castello. This charming town guarded a hidden gem – an 11th-century Norman Castle - but we had more important things to do - like have some delicious Ionian seafood for lunch. Our pick was Le Muse Ristorante Pizzeria in Aci Trezza, the next town up.

Its proximity to Mt. Etna - the biggest and most active volcano in Europe - has given the harbor of Catania, Sicily a volatile history. While the story of the harbor begins in the 8th century BC when Greek colonists established their city of Katane, natural disasters frequently reshaped the coastline, including the harbor area. The 1693 Earthquake and Tsunami leveled Catania but it marked a turning point for the harbor. The city was rebuilt with a more organized urban plan, and the port infrastructure was also improved.

Coming here to visit the castle, the entranceway inspired dreams of life in a castle, with Kings, Queens, Knights, intrigue and people scurrying from room to room to serve the Royalty. This castle was the real deal. I expected to see Knight's armor, fashions of the Queens at the time, some castle-type furniture, stories of trickery and manipulation with some physicality of the fantasy that the entrance hall promised. Alas... there was nothing of the sort.

This place doesn't look like much, but it's highly recommended and is considered to be a "hidden jewel" of Catania. Locals praise the excellent food, good prices and friendly staff. Located right on the street, L’angolo Dello Chef offers an original traditional Sicilian menu with a modern twist. Come take a look.

In the Mt. Etna city of Catania, grilled horse meat is not just food: it is cultural heritage! To outsiders, the tradition of eating horse – which you'll find all around southern Italy – is controversial. So what's the big deal? Read on, to find out more about this disputed source of protein.

Mooddika Restaurant Catania, Sicily

As you know, we are FOODIES and like to try out different restaurants. Today, we wandered around the Historical section of Catania, and just a few stone throws from the University of Catania, is Mooddika Restaurant. It was a lovely day, and there were outside tables on a quiet alleyway, so we decided to give it a try.

Mt. Etna is located on the eastern coast of Sicily and is the highest active volcano in Europe. Dominating the city of Catania, it has reshaped the surrounding landscape due to its many eruptions over the centuries.

The amphitheatre of Catania is the most complicated and largest of all the amphitheatres in Sicily. It is one of a group of large arenas, which also includes the Coliseum in Rome. By looking at what's been uncovered as a tourist attractions today, you might not guess that this fact is so.

Eating pizza in Italy is not similar to the experience of eating pizza in the US. It is nowhere close. Not far from our apartment in Catania, and on one of our well-traveled paths to the historical section of the city is this Pizza and Pasta place. Simple and offering only outdoor seating, we thought to give it a try.

Just a stone’s throw away from our apartment in Palermo, Sicily, is this ancient alleyway which we discovered by accident. It led us to one of the best restaurants we experienced in Sicily! Look how old and ancient this cramped alley is! But it leads out into a main road in the city of Palermo. You can only imagine the stories this alley could tell… To view on Rumble, click here. 

We are on a side street in Palermo, Sicily buying pastries for the morning, and bread for meals. Figs are a big deal in Southern Italy and in Sicily. Fig jam, fig fillings, fig pastries… Gotta have some of those! To view on Rumble, click here.

We are wandering through the Central Market in Palermo, Sicily. Fruits, vegetables, pasta shops, bakeries, kitchen shops and LOTS of tourists! Opening out into a wide square with a fountain and the Church of Santo Domenico. To view on Rumble, click here.

Wandering around on the walking street in Palermo, Sicily on our first morning. It’s drizzling, dark and crowded. Billy wonders why we came here in the first place… We walk past historic buildings, a famous piazza and horse-drawn carriages. To view on Rumble, click here.

After some days to get used to being in Palermo, and getting in sync with such a vibrant place, we end up liking it quite a bit! We are walking down the pedestrian street on a weekend where you can find people from all over the world. The whole street is lined with outdoor cafes and restaurants, with scooters, motorbikes, bicycles and foot traffic making people-watching very fascinating. To view on Rumble, click here.

We have our laundry hanging outside just like the locals due all over Italy. You can see our neighborhood, with tours of kids going to educational events in the city. Billy is bemoaning our apartment here in Palermo – and with good cause, seeing as how the bathroom was a death trap… But as long-term travelers, we make the most of it and move on. Remember, Sicily is not for sissies! To view on Rumble, click here.

Massive selections of excellent foods available in this large German global discount supermarket chain in Palermo, Sicily. For the pricing, one can eat very well at home. Look for the DOP designation, as that is quality controlled, but you almost cannot make a mistake in choosing. Everything that a Salumeria has, except the butcher. To view on Rumble, click here.

We had a confusion of dates for our hotel stay in Palermo, Sicily, causing us to be without a room, late on a Friday night when Palermo is fully booked! Trying 5 hotels, (who are also calling hotels and AirBnBs), even considering staying the night at the train station, we are rescued by a Café Owner who drives us to gorgeous Hotel Bellevue at midnight. This glorious morning, the hotel manager is driving us back to the train station so we can continue our journey to coastal town Cefalu, Sicily. To view on Rumble, click here.

We are at the main Cathedral in Palermo, Sicily. Battles were fought here over the centuries for the control of this site of worship. Each new conqueror left their architectural mark on this spectacular building – the Arabs, Normans, Byzantines and the Renaissance styles are all seen. Inside (see link to pictorial below) you will see a sun tracking line that runs through the Cathedral. It was used to tell the time, the months and most importantly in the Christian church, the date for Easter, according to the Spring equinox. To view on Rumble, click here.

We are at the Historical Waterfront of Palermo, Sicily which has been conquered by many invaders over the centuries. Today it’s peaceful and one can walk your dog, or job on the beautiful waterway. You’ll see Mount Pelligrino in the background. To view on Rumble, click here.

We are sitting in an historical section of Palermo, Sicily where tour groups pass by and take photos of the beautiful architecture. People watching is amazing as we get the smallest glimpse into their lives as they walk on. Rental scooters zoom by, there’s car traffic too. Billy tells you a story about how we lost internet connection through our Italian provider but then we resolved our problem! It’s a MUST to be flexible when traveling. To view on Rumble, click here.

We are in the historical section of Palermo, Sicily on a beautiful sunny morning when we are surprised to find a scheduled music event. Young women are singing soprano to keyboard background with bystanders watching. A glimpse into life in Sicily. Enjoy! To view on Rumble, click here.

Wandering the Backstreets of Palermo, Sicily 

Sicily has GRIT. We’re walking the backstreets where the locals live, work and drink. While it might look a bit shady, we never felt unsafe in Sicily. People are warm and friendly and they return our greetings. A little graffiti here, a little graffiti there, we meander through this neighborhood where there must be a half-dozen bars that open at night. Check it out. To view on Rumble, click here.

Live Music on our Walk to the Main Cathedral in Sunny Palermo, Sicily

This sunny day in Palermo, we are on our way to the Main Cathedral. Musicians are playing in the famous 4-square area of the historical section of the city. There are lots of outdoor seating areas for restaurants, people walking, and scooters zooming. To view on Rumble, click here.

Walking Home from the Waterfront in Palermo, Sicily

We are coming back from the famous Palermo waterfront and take a miscellaneous street to wander down. There are skilled murals painted on the walls of apartment buildings which are eye-catching and it’s a sunny day. Clean, beautiful neighborhood. To view on Rumble, click here.

Akaisha takes you along as we are riding the train from Palermo, Sicily to the lovely and ancient beach city of Cefalu. It’s a beautiful day with lush countryside to view outside the train window… that is, when we aren’t going through tunnels (!) Akaisha tries to recover from finding her reflection in the train window as we go into a LOOOONG tunnel… It’s still a gorgeous day with sea views so enjoy! To view on Rumble, click here.

We are in the Medieval beach town of Cefalu, showing you the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Old Town, Rocca di Cefalu where we hiked the day before, and the peaceful ripple of waves on the beach. To view on Rumble, click here.

We are walking down the malecon by the beach in historical Cefalu, Sicily. It’s an immaculate town that tourists love with picturesque scenery all around. La Rocca is a huge presence, there is a Cathedral, and this beach is where many invasions of this island of Sicily happened. Hard to even envision that through the calmness that is today. Billy tells a woeful tale of internet connection in our apartment as well as grappling with digitized European electric stoves! To view on Rumble, click here. 

We are hiking up La Rocca in Cefalu, Sicily. The hike starts out easy, but gets increasingly slippery, uneven and unstable. The top is 270 meters up this long and winding footpath. The views are staggering and sweeping, but at about 80+% up this trail, we decide that we can no longer continue. If you go, wear hiking boots, bring a walking stick and water/snacks in your daypack! Highly recommended! To view on Rumble, click here.

Coming Back from the Porto, Walking through Quaint Streets of Cefalu, Sicily

Coming back from the Porto of Cefalu, we wander around the renovated Medieval streets of stunning Cefalu, Sicily. Ancient buildings are updated into attractive souvenir shops and art stores. Cafes are everywhere. Enjoy the sunlit morning, the Sicilian pottery and the glimpse into how “yesterdays” have moved into the present. Cefalu is a remarkable international destination. To view on Rumble, click here.

Our Landlady, Katya, picked us up as we arrived at the bus station in Catania and took us straight away to our apartment. Knowing we’d be needing supplies, she offered to take us to the large food chain store, LIDL, to get supplies. Going through some backstreets, you’ll see the gritty historical city on our first day. To view on Rumble, click here.

You get a full look at this 2 bedroom, 2 bath apartment we rented in a great location in Catania, Sicily. Just down the street is a view of Mt. Etna, traffic below is super entertainment, and a delicacy and popular street food – grilled horse meat – is sold downstairs. To view on Rumble, click here.

It’s our first day and we are on the way to Porta Garibaldi – an historic Baroque-style arch built in 1768 to celebrate the marriage between a king and a princess. But first, we stop at a grocery to buy things for lunch, and view a tattoo parlor – but Billy declines getting one. Look below for links to related stories. To view on Rumble, click here.

It’s so easy to make wonderful meals in Sicily. The grocery stores have freshly made pasta, tasty bottled sauces, excellent Extra Virgin Olive Oil, grain breads, various cheeses and affordable wines. Our apartment comes with the requisite espresso machine where we simply “plop and drop” the espresso pods and we’re ready to go! To view on Rumble, click here.

Billy takes you through this centuries-old fish market in Catania, Sicily. Local families, restauranteurs and chefs all come here looking for the freshest catch. You’ll see swordfish, tuna, cuttlefish, shrimp, squid, octopus, and all sorts of shellfish. There are even fresh and dried local herbs for sale. The place is quite hectic with people shouting and buying their catch of the day. To view on Rumble, click here.

While Billy and I are not “tour people” we decided to take this bus tour up the coast of Sicily from Catania to Aci Trezza. This area of the coast – filled with lava rock that has come up from underground fissures – is called the Cyclops Riviera. You’ll see an ancient Norman Castle and The Faraglioni formation. The coast is similar to the one in Oregon which also has undersea volcanoes. Take a look! To view on Rumble, click here.

Crispini Crispelle in Catania, Sicily – A Delicious Local Treat

We saw this dessert earlier in the day but had to pass it up. However, Billy found the bakery that made them and now… we’re in for a local treat! Made from rice flour and soaked in honey, these “stuffed sponges” and chewy and a real delight! Billy walks you down typical Catania streets with their Baroque architecture and Sunday afternoon activity. To view on Rumble, click here.

Before going to the café at the Porto in Catania, Billy takes you for a quick walk around. You’ll see private small seacraft, fishing boats and even a sunken boat! Historic working harbor with buildings from the Renaissance surrounding it. To view on Rumble, click here.

We are walking through some side streets in Catania, Sicily, and come across this Gelato Vendor. He’s ringing a bell to let the neighborhood know he’s arrived and then goes about filling orders. He motions to us to try the almond gelato, and we can’t help ourselves… we buy 2 cups! To view on Rumble, click here.  

We are eating at the famous A Putia do Calabrisi Restaurante in Catania, Sicily. It’s a place we nicknamed The Mafia Restaurant and it is just electric! People are waiting outside to get in and they keep on coming! Santina, her sister Giovanna, her Father Ameda all run the front end. Mama is in the kitchen cooking. No menu, no reservations. You come, and you eat what Mama has cooked for the day – Just like home! It’s So. Sicilian. To view on Rumble, click here.

We have a great apartment in downtown Catania, Sicily. Billy shows you the entertaining traffic downstairs that we see from our bedroom window. And there is a local horsemeat grill selling this local specialty. Mt. Etna is just up the street from us, as well as the main street which leads to an upscale shopping area and the historical section. All from our apartment window! To view on Rumble, click here.

Not far from our apartment in Catania, Sicily, we shop at Leotta’s Salumeria. This man has such a great face and smile – he’s 76 years old, and has had this shop for 3 decades. We have purchased from him several times already during our stay in Catania, but before we leave for Rome, we purchase some Parma Ham for about $3USD. To view on Rumble, click here.