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In 1991 Billy and Akaisha Kaderli retired at the age of 38. Now, into their 4th decade of this financially independent lifestyle, they invite you to take advantage of their wisdom and experience.

Syracusa and Ortigia

Sicily

Billy and Akaisha Kaderli

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Just a day trip from Catania, we decided to see another ancient and historical seaside town. 

Founded by Greek colonists around 734 BC, Syracuse quickly became a powerful city-state in ancient Greece. Described by Cicero as "the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all", it equaled Athens in size at the time.

But in 212 BC, Syracuse fell to the Roman Republic, ending its period of Greek independence.

As any town-with-a-seaport in these ancient times, Syracuse was ruled by various cultures (Byzantines, Arabs, Normans) and each left their mark on the city's architecture and culture.

Google map showing Catania and Syracuse, Sicily

Map showing locations of Catania and Syracuse

Syracuse is located in the southeast corner of the island of Sicily, next to the Gulf of Syracuse beside the Ionian Sea.  Today, the city is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. 

To get to Syracusa, we took a bus ($6.20Euros one-way). It took about 2 hours to get there, due to intense traffic.

When we arrived in town, it was overrun with tourists. We must have hit it at the peak with families, baby strollers, and visitors.

We met a similar situation in Naples, and this isn't exactly our style, but we pushed on.

The Grand Harbor, Ortigia, Sicily

The Grand Harbor

We arrived in Syracuse, but to get to Ortigia, we needed to cross a bridge.

Here you see the Porto Grande or The Grand Harbor which is the main commercial port of the city.

The tall building on the right is the Customs House which is a prominent landmark on the waterfront, constructed in the late 19th century.

In this harbor you will see boats, ships, fishing vessels, ferries and pleasure crafts.

You can also walk leisurely along the waterfront.

Fresh oyster display, Ortigia, Sicily

Fresh oysters, free wine!

Entering Ortigia, there were colorful markets. This stall is selling fresh oysters for $2.50Euros each but you get a glass of wine free!

The sale of fresh seafood like these oysters is a common sight at markets in Italy

It's a great way for visitors to taste local delicacies and experience the vibrant food culture of the country.

Dried seeds, nuts and fruits in Ortigia, Sicily

Dried seeds, nuts, and fruit display

The morning market was GORGEOUS. Look at these colors!

You can fine "everything" here - like dried kumquats, kiwis, papayas, and lemons, apricots, blueberries and cranberries.

 

 

 

 

The custom of selling dried fruits and nuts in Syracuse and Ortigia dates back to ancient times. These products were important staples in the Mediterranean diet and were often traded with other regions.

Who wouldn't want to purchase these yummies?

We continued to walk through all these tiny streets (the Arab section was amazing because it was just so tiny, tangled and historic).

Typical street in Ortigia, Sicily

Typical street in Ortigia

The Greeks established the city's urban layout, including the network of streets and squares that still exists today.

Over the centuries, various civilizations who have invaded, added to and modified the city's infrastructure.

The archways of these buildings go back to Medieval times.

Another typical street in Ortigia, Sicily

Another typical street in Ortigia

In this area of Ortigia, our Google maps wouldn't work. So it was difficult to find out where we were in relationship to anything else - the sea for instance.

At this time, we were trying to make it back to the sea walk to find a restaurant for lunch.

But... where are we?

Beautiful cream, yellow, peach and coffee-colored buildings with wrought iron balconies and various plants for charm and contrast.

Indoor, outdoor seating at a restaurant, Ortigia, Sicily

Indoor and outdoor seating at this restaurant

This vanilla and almond colored limestone archway possibly dates back to the Medieval or Renaissance period. It suggests that this building was an historic structure.

Indoor and outdoor seating for this restaurant is available.

Inside a restaurant in Ortigia, Sicily

Inside restaurant

We made it out of the residential maze but we are still nowhere close to the sea yet.

You will notice on the left wall of this restaurant that there are pictures of knights on horseback. the blue-ish sculpture suggests Greek gods.

This restaurant most likely specializes in traditional Sicilian cuisine.

Dishes such as fresh seafood, pasta, and local cheeses would be served.

This building could be a former residence or a shop that has been converted into a restaurant, giving it a unique ambiance.

The Fountain of Diana, Ortigia, Sicily

The fountain of Diana

This is the Fountain of Diana, a Greek goddess located in Piazza Archimede. Archimede was a famous mathematician and inventor centuries ago who tried to protect his Greek home from the Roman invasion.

This fountain was built in 1845 and is a popular tourist attraction and a focal point of  this Piazza.

Tourists eating out on the street in Ortigia, Sicily

Tourists eating outside

Well, we are getting closer to our goal!

Here tourists are eating their lunch and sitting outside, but we wanted a sea view.

 

 

 

 

Cannoli lined up for the eating in Ortigia, Sicily

Cannoli all lined up for the eating!

Cannoli are a popular Sicilian pastry that consist of a crispy, deep-fried shell filled with a sweet ricotta cheese filling. They are typically topped with powdered sugar, chocolate chips, or candied fruit.

It is said that they originated in Sicily during the Arab occupation.

The filling is piped into the crispy shell and then topped with powdered sugar or other decorations.

Don't these look scrumptious?

Panoramic shot of The Grand Harbor, Ortigia, Sicily

A panoramic view of the Grand Harbor

The harbor was established by Greek colonists in the 8th century BC when they founded Syracuse.

Its strategic location contributed to the city's growth and prosperity, even through the Roman Empire times and beyond.

Syracuse's naval power and substance was closely tied to its harbor.

The city's fleet played a crucial role in numerous battles and conflicts, including the Peloponnesian War and the Punic Wars, one of the most significant being the Siege of Syracuse (214-212 BC).

Today, the harbor remains a vital economic asset for Syracuse, supporting fishing, tourism, and trade activities.

The promenade alongside the Grand Harbor, Ortigia, Sicily

The promenade alongside the harbor

We made it to the sea!

Look at this broad walkway with historic buildings on one side, and yachts lined up on the other.

Such a beautiful sunny Sicilian day.

Open air restaurant by the Grand Harbor, Ortigia, Sicily

The restaurant where we chose to eat

We finally made it to the sea side restaurants, and decided to try this one.  

Our waiter was from Thailand and he spoke several languages (of course!) including Thai, English, Italian and the Sicilian dialect.

I might be offending Risotto-lovers here, but  I’m not a huge fan of this dish.

However, I thought if I were ever to taste it authentically, Sicily would be the place.

We both ordered seafood Risotto – and to be honest, it was THE best Risotto I have ever had!

 BUT… to me, it’s still just a bowl of flavored rice.

Ouch.

I would have liked a nice side dish as contrast or a salad or... but for the amount of work it takes to make risotto, I just don’t think there’s much bang for the trouble.

Well, gosh. There, I've said it.

I hope I'm not on someone's "love risotto or die" list.

The bridge that connects Syracuse with Ortigia, Sicily

The bridge that connects Syracuse with Ortigia

This is Ponte Umberto I, which connects the mainland of Syracuse to the island of Ortigia. 

This landmark bridge was built in 1877 and named after King Umberto I of Italy.

During the Greek and Roman periods, Syracuse and Ortigia were not physically separated. The island of Ortigia was simply a peninsula connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. This land bridge would have allowed people and goods to move freely between the two areas.

There’s a lot to see in Syracuse - Ortigia and we probably only saw a quarter of it. Ortigia has countless tiny streets all convoluted and few straight lines.

If you decide to visit these towns, allow yourself enough time to wander, get lost and recover. It will be worth it!

To return to Catania, we found the "bus station" which was only a ticket box and purchased return tickets there.

It was an easier trip home with less traffic, but it still took us over an hour and a half, as the bus stops at the airport coming and going.

For more stories, photos and videos of Italy, click here for Sicily, click here

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About the Authors

 
Billy and Akaisha Kaderli are recognized retirement experts and internationally published authors on topics of finance, medical tourism and world travel. With the wealth of information they share on their award winning website RetireEarlyLifestyle.com, they have been helping people achieve their own retirement dreams since 1991. They wrote the popular books, The Adventurer’s Guide to Early Retirement and Your Retirement Dream IS Possible available on their website bookstore or on Amazon.com.

 

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