Retire Early
Lifestyle
Retirement; like your parents, but way cooler
In 1991 Billy and Akaisha Kaderli retired at the age
of 38. Now, into their 4th decade of this
financially independent lifestyle, they invite you
to take advantage of their wisdom and experience. |
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A Putia do
Calabrisi Restaurante
Catania, Sicily
Warning: if you don't like
authentic Italian/Sicilian food leave this page.
Billy and Akaisha Kaderli
Currency Converter
If you are looking for an
authentic Osteria experience away from the tourist crowds
in Catania, look no
further than A Putia do Calabrisi Restaurante.
This is a local favorite
nestled outside the city center and it offers a legitimate Catanese dining
experience, perfect for adventurous
FOODIES and curious travelers.
Definitely
not-to-be-missed.
People queuing up to enter the restaurant
We heard this restaurant
was very popular with the locals queuing up early just to get in.
There is no menu, no
reservations and there
is no waiting list. You must go to Santina (there in the doorway) and show your
face, letting her know how many people you want a table for.
Somehow, she remembers
everyone and everything.
Meanwhile, people sit on
their motorbikes, tap on their smart-phones or wait on a bench, drinking wine or
smoking their cigarettes or weed.
What. A. Place.
Billy decided it was best to sit with his back to the wall
As you know,
the Mafia
began in Sicily.
The feel of this
restaurant was so Sicilian, and with looking at the photos on the wall
(behind Billy), we had fun dubbing Calabrisi as "The Mafia Restaurant."
Hence, Billy's choice to
sit with his back against the wall... "just in case."
"Leave The Gun, Take The
Cannoli” - from Goodfellas.
We are sharing our table
with 2 locals - Sylvia and Maximillio - who didn't speak a word of English.
Thank God for Google Translate!
The antipasto plate
On our first visit to
Calabrisi, it was packed both inside the restaurant and out.
The energy was electric.
Quickly, I Google translated
to Santina that we wanted to be on a waiting list for lunch.
There was no list.
But.
She remembered us (we were
the only foreigners there) and when a shared table opened up, she motioned to us
to come inside and sit with another Sicilian couple, Silvia and Maximillio.
They were friendly
and we hit it off spectacularly.
We sat down, ordered a
half-carafe of wine and a
bottle of natural water and then it all started.
The plates came.
A closer look at the antipasto
We had an antipasto plate which was a combination of cured salami
and cheese, different cooked peppers, olives, grilled eggplant, and little
fresh tomatoes.
From the first bite it was OMGOD OMGOD OMGOD.
The FLAVOR.
Barreled table wine
Amedeo is the father and he is in charge of
serving wine from
these barrels or draft beer from the tap.
Santina and her sister, Giovanna, take orders
and deliver food. Mum (and her team) are in the kitchen cooking.
A real
family affair.
Using Google Translate
We are speaking with Sylvia and Maximillio
via Google Translate.
This is Sylvia's response to our question
about the after-dinner aperitif wine they ordered. "It's good for the
digestion!" they said.
Zibibbo is a white grape variety native to
the Mediterranean region, specifically from Egypt, and widely planted in Sicily
and its islands. It is also known as Muscat of Alexandria, due to its supposed
origin from the city of Alexandria in Egypt.
Zibibbo has been cultivated for at least
5,000 years, making it one of the oldest grapes still used in today’s Italian
wine industry.
Because this grape has remained relatively
unchanged genetically over the course of these 5,000 years, it is considered a
“viticultural miracle.”
A lively atmosphere at the restaurant
Did I mention that there is no menu?
Santina comes by and - depending on the day -
basically says "Beef, pork, chicken, or fish."
Then she starts to serve you whatever Mama
has cooked that day.
I grew up Italian so the warm chaos, the
elbow-to-elbow, with everyone talking all at once - well, it felt like home.
Oh, if
my Grandma could see me now!
Look at that smile on my
face.
I was transported back to
my childhood.
The second dining room
There is a second dining room, and on one of
our return visits we sat inside there.
Santina is standing in the center of the
photo, speaking to the people at the table.
There is no pretense here.
Dishes are seasonal and
fresh.
Mama cooks, and they serve what they have
that day, course after course for about 100 people daily.
A simple salad
I know this doesn't look like much - just a
simple salad.
But looks can be deceiving.
Every bite was a zesty burst; crisp and
sun-ripened.
And all of this contrasted against the
impeccable virgin olive oil.
Pasta with Pomodoro sauce
Pasta, in the Sicilian style of eating, is
simply one course, not the main one. And it's the pasta that is featured, not
the sauce.
That being said, this Pomodoro sauce is made
from fully grown garden tomatoes with a grilled slice of eggplant on top.
Grated Parmesan Reggiano cheese is sprinkled
on top.
Grilled whole fish with lemon and olive
oil
This grilled whole fish, served with olive
oil underneath, parsley, and sweet lemon on the side, was my main course.
If you have never tasted the
famous lemons of
southern Italy and Sicily, you have truly been missing out. They have been
famous for centuries, back to the days of the Romans and Greeks.
What made this dish so delicious, was the
contrast of the grilled skin of the fish, against the distinctive olive oil and
sweet lemon.
Fresh grilled squid with lemon and olive
oil
Billy's main course this day was the grilled
calamari - again with the olive oil and sweet lemon.
People claim that Calabrisi is almost a food
museum, because it retains Catania's culinary traditions so exactingly.
You won't find "trendy" or "upscale" here,
just a real-deal trattoria that has survived changing styles and gentrification.
Billy and Santina
Santina is the sweetest, nicest, funniest
host you’ve ever met in your life. And... she's a ham. "Wanna take
my photo? ok! Sure!"
This restaurant serves family-style fare and
it hasn't updated the interior to keep with the times. It's kept its wood
paneling with family photos (and photos of Cardinals, Bishops and priests) and
offers pitchers of wine from barrels.
The prices are amazing and there's a sense of
old world home-cooked food that they've been serving for decades.
Fish with potatoes and mushrooms
This fish dish with
potatoes and mushrooms was simple yet memorable.
There is no shyness in
Sicilian food.
Everything is a winner.
Every dish is a star.
We found that no course
competed with any other, as they were all unique in their own way and
fabulous.
A plate of grilled whole sardines
Santina chose this dish for me on one of my
return visits. She knew I loved the food and that I was game to try something
new.
Or at least, new for me.
I'm a bit embarrassed to say that - despite
being raised Italian - I have never had a plate of grilled sardines before.
You eat the whole fish, bones and all.
Let me
just say that regardless of what you might taste in canned sardines, this dish
was neither fishy nor salty. Just remarkably fresh and wholesome.
Giovanna, Ameda and
Santina
This photo is taken from
our seats in the second dining room.
Standing is Ameda, the
father, with his two daughters Giovanna on the left, and Santina on the right.
This restaurant is a
serious WOW.
And you don't have to take
my word for it.
People are waiting outside
before they open just to get in, and when we left, people were still waiting
outside wanting our seats!
All these courses, a carafe
of wine, and a bottle of water came to $25E for the 2 of us. There was no
coberto (Italy's cover charge in lieu of tipping).
What. A. Deal.
This place was authentic.
Honest. True to their heritage.
What did John Gotti say? "I
never lie because I don't fear anyone. You only lie when you're afraid."
And this family is not
afraid to be who they are.
Would we recommend A Putia
do Calabrisi?
ABSOLUTELY!
__________
A Putia do Calabrisi
Via della Concordia, 185
95121 Catania, Italy
Open daily but Sunday from Noon - 3:30pm
Tele: +39 349 843 6479
Retire
Early Lifestyle appeals to a different
kind of person – the person who prizes their
independence, values their time, and who doesn’t
want to mindlessly follow the crowd.
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