Retire Early Lifestyle
Retirement; like your parents, but way cooler

In 1991 Billy and Akaisha Kaderli retired at the age of 38. Now, into their 4th decade of this financially independent lifestyle, they invite you to take advantage of their wisdom and experience.

Explore the Historic Streets of Matera, Italy:

Beyond the Sassi

Billy and Akaisha Kaderli

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 Thinking of visiting Matera, Italy? The famous Sassi cave dwellings are a must-see, but don't miss the charm of the historic city streets above!

Step Back in Time: A Different Era in Matera

Matera boasts not just one, but two distinct historical areas. While the Sassi capture the essence of cave dwelling life, the city's historic center showcases a different architectural era. Developed primarily between the 17th and 18th centuries, this area offers a fascinating mix of architectural styles.

From Sassi to Spacious: A Change of Scenery

Compared to the densely packed Sassi dwellings, the historic area is all about grandeur. Imagine strolling through wide streets and airy piazzas, admiring the impressive public buildings. This open atmosphere provides a delightful contrast to the subterranean world below.

Planning Your Matera Trip: Sassi and Beyond

Matera caters to all tastes! If you're seeking a unique historical experience, be sure to include the historic streets in your itinerary alongside the iconic Sassi.

Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi or the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi

As you can view here, this church stands on an ample Piazza San Francesco.

This church is a place of Catholic worship in Baroque style. At the top there are three statues, with the Virgin Mary in the center, and Saint Francis and Saint Anthony on the sides.

Initially, there was an ancient underground church named after the Saints Peter and Paul. This can still be visited today by accessing a trap door from a chapel inside.

Direction signs in Matera

The signs above direct you to the Sasso Barisano (which means "above the chasm"), to the Piazza del Sedile - which is now an international Conservatory of Music, to churches, museums and even a palace.

These particular signs are located right at the spectacular cliff view of The Sassi from Matera's bluff.

The Main Street in Historical Matera

Via Lucana is the larger road that runs through this section of Historical Matera.

The section of road closest to the buildings and restaurants that you see here is called Via Ridola.

Our cave apartment is just down a tiny walkway between the rounded convex building in the center-middle and the restaurant/bar on the middle-right.

We were located right in the center of town, which was convenient.

Via Lucana used to be an ancient walking path from centuries  ago. It connected Matera to other villages in the region, possibly predating Roman times. However, Via Lucana transformed along with the city of Matera and today it is a vibrant commercial street within the historic center.

Here you will find family-run shops alongside more modern retailers, and Italy's famous gelaterias.

From this roadway, just in front of the last building on the right, is one of the entrances to The Sassi.

Some sections of Via Lucana are pedestrian-only, creating a car-free and open atmosphere.

A local restaurant in town

This was a popular place to enjoy Happy Hour, which is what these people are doing now.

To the left, outside of the photo, is one of the main entrances to The Sassi with the open bluff view.

Straight forward, behind the building you see here, is the modern day city of Matera.

The little alleyway to our apartment is to the right.

A white wine and an Aperol Spritz

A drink that is amazingly popular throughout Europe is the Aperol Spritz.

It's a bubbly cocktail that is super refreshing and not too sweet.

Aperol is a bright orange apéritif mixed with an Italian sparkling wine like Prosecco or French Champagne served with a slice of fresh orange.

If you want a less boozy cocktail, you can dilute it with sparkling soda.

Aperol itself is a little bit bitter and takes a moment to get used to. Billy just loved it and he fit right in with all the trendy Europeans drinking the same thing!

It goes well with cheeses, fruit, and olives. 

For myself, I stayed with the white wine, but I did take occasional sips from Billy's glass.

Definitely try this fashionable drink. I'm betting most of you will love it.

A local Speakeasy

Just up from our apartment was this Speakeasy.

You've heard of them, haven't you?

Speakeasies were a world of clandestine, illegal bars that operated in secret locations like hidden basements, back rooms, or apartments during the Prohibition Era in the United States. They offered patrons a place to drink alcohol despite the ban of the 18th Amendment to the US Constitution.

Speakeasies employed various tactics to remain secret. They had unmarked entrances, passwords for entry, or peepholes to check for police before letting someone in.

Of course, when the 21st Amendment was passed allowing alcohol to be purchased and transported again, speakeasies began to disappear.

We had curiosity about this place, but did not get to visit.

Whitewashed buildings

This is a closer look at the buildings on Via Ridola, the small pathway behind Via Lucana which serves as the main road in Historical Matera.

Because the town has various levels to it, you will notice the continuous small steps at the bottom of this photo which one must be aware of when walking around. It's easy to trip on them, or if you have a rollie bag, one is always making a "kerchunk" noise with the lifting or falling of the luggage.

The beautiful whitewashed buildings here with the salmon color bleeding through and the blue contrast makes for an attractive European look.

Map of the more modern town of Matera

In this pictorial, we show you many of the locations marked on this map of Historical Matera.

Leter "N" on the map above says "Ascensore" which means elevator... we walked all over The Sassi and did not see an elevator.

I would have LOVED taking an elevator up and down to The Sassi, as it was a bit precarious walking to and from this cave village. Between keeping one's balance, slipping and sliding, no handrails and the stress on one's knees due to variations in the heights of the steps, this elevator would have been a welcome relief!

Building from the late 17th century

Morning and afternoon sun on these building created such beauty. This local stone is similar to the color used in the Italian city of Lecce.

It is warm, bright and welcoming compared to some of the stone used in other quarries that is gray or black. It gives a whole other feel to the place.

Wrought iron guard rails bring class to the architecture of this area.

Table and chairs at a cafe

This cafe is on Via del Corso which is a little outside the Historical Matera, but not far.

You'll see the notorious Vespa motorbike in this photo - this time in an aqua.

These bikes are comfortable, affordable, stylish and they make a statement: "I am fashionable. I'm in the know. I have a carefree life" - no matter what age the driver.

Afternoon sunlight hits this cafe

Once again you see the afternoon sunlight casting this cafe on center stage.

You can see the local stone is sometimes yellow or cream, tan, beige, or latte colored.

More wrought iron balconies, and Ecco! (Voila! in Italian) you have instant class.

(Pronounced: EH--Coh)

Billy and Akaisha in front of the Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi (Church of Saint Francis of Assisi)

While this church was originally built in the first half of the 13th century and enlarged in the 15th century, the current facade, which is in the Baroque style, was built in the 18th century.

As we mentioned previously, there used to be a much older church on this site dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul which can be accessed through a trap door inside.

Carts and bicycles in front of Chiesa del Purgatorio

These modes of transport are in front of the Church of Purgatory. It just so happens that we often sat at a cafe in front of this and people-watched from this location.

The stairs in the center of the photo go up into the modern part of Matera.

You will also notice a bronze statue of a tree at the bottom of the stairs, which we will show you more closely in the following photo.

Bronze statue of a tree

This very beautiful artistic bronze tree caught the afternoon sunlight each day.

We'd visit the coffee shop across Via Lucana, people-watch and observe this tree come to life.

A closer look at the façade of Chiesa del Purgatorio

This Baroque style church was built between 1725 and 1747, and has a rather ghastly exterior.

Above the doorway, two skeletons stand out. The one on the left holds a scythe which is symbolic of death, and the one on the right holds an hourglass representing the passage of time. (None of us will escape, you know! Yikes!)

In Catholic belief, purgatory is a temporary state of purification for souls before entering heaven, so this church emphasizes the gruesome reminders of mortality such as numerous skulls, skeletons, and other symbols of death.

We are to be reminded of the importance of praying for the dead.

Personally, I think that message could have been delivered in a less horrifying manner, but during these Medieval times, Life itself was rather terrifying.

The Church emphasized that Fear using it as a means of controlling the people.

There is very little "Lightness of God" or laughter passed down to us from these tormented times centuries ago.

Via Rosario - another entrance to The Sassi

From Historical Matera, there were several entrances to The Sassi. Each one would bring you to a different location, giving you various perspectives of the village.

This Via Rosario is the "Way of the Rosary" which is a means of meditation and prayer.

Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista - Church of Saint John the Baptist

A church was documented on this place since 1204, and it was called Santa Maria Nuova. The church belonged to the Benedictine monks, who abandoned it in 1212.

The church has a unique blend of Romanesque, Arabic, and Gothic styles.

The Romanesque style is evident in the use of rounded arches. Arabic influences can be seen in the very decorative details like above the main entranceway. Gothic touches are represented in the pointed arches and window stonework.

A statue of St. John the Baptist is in the niche under the rose window.

This church is located outside the walls of the historical center of the city, in Piazza San Giovanni.

A typical day of tourists in Matera

Due to the location of the renovated Sassi, Matera has now become a huge tourist destination.

While there were times of the day where the streets held fewer people, the view you see here was very common.

Tramontano Castle

Tramontano Castle sits on a hill overlooking Matera, so one can see it from outside the historical center.

The Count of Matera whose last name was Tramontano, built this castle around 1501. King Ferdinand II of the Naples Kingdom gave official approval of the construction and the purpose of the castle was to control the local population.

The people of Matera had freed themselves from feudal control several times and King Ferdinand II was concerned that it might happen again.

He had reason to feel uneasy, as the Matera citizens were unhappy with Tramontano's harsh rule and his raising of their taxes to build his castle... so they murdered him.

Needless to say that the construction was abruptly halted in 1514 due to the Count's death and it remained unfinished for centuries.

In fact, the castle remained unfinished even today, and it never served its intended purpose.

Restoration efforts began in 2008, focusing on the central keep, towers, and surrounding walls.

Palazzo del Sedile, also known as the Conservatory of Music É.R. Duni

This palace was originally built in 1540. It served as the seat of a local judicial body until 1944.

In the early 1980s the palace changed its use, becoming the main venue of the National Conservatory of Music. It was dedicated to the composer Egidio Romualdo Duni who was a prominent Italian composer in 18th-century music.

He began studying music at age 9 and composed his first work at age 24. He then moved to Paris, France and  composed French operas until he died.

Since the early 1980s, the underground levels of this building host concerts as a modern Auditorium with a capacity of about 450 seats.

The facade of the Palazzo del Sedile has statues representing figures such as Justice, Fortitude, Temperance and Prudence.

Albergo Italia

This elegant hotel has amazing views of The Sassi. It also has a restaurant and coffee shop.

It is located at the end of the Via Lucana not far from the the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi.

A young man with his Renault Twingo Convertible

Doesn't this look so Italian? Or maybe like someone from Monte Carlo?

This young man has a Renault Twingo Convertible, "Twingo" being a blend of  the words twist, swing, and tango.

This area of the Via Del Corso is an LTZ - or a limited traffic zone. It is mostly a pedestrian walking street with some cars making their way through.

Via Del Corso is a mix of residential and commercial spaces with fine shops, historical churches, restaurants and gelaterias.

Matera is certainly a worthy place to visit. Between The Sassi, the unique history and landscape, and various lovely restaurants, you could easily pass 5-7 days here.

Retire Early Lifestyle appeals to a different kind of person – the person who prizes their independence, values their time, and who doesn’t want to mindlessly follow the crowd.

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