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In 1991 Billy and Akaisha Kaderli retired at the age of 38. Now, into their 4th decade of this financially independent lifestyle, they invite you to take advantage of their wisdom and experience.

The Sassi, Matera, Italy

Billy and Akaisha Kaderli

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The story of the Sassi in Matera, Italy might just blow your mind.

Carved into the limestone cliffs of Matera in southern Italy is a village of cave dwellings and churches built right into the stone.

It is one of the oldest, continuously inhabited settlements of humans in the world, dating back to the Paleolithic era.

Due to the difficulty of their location, the challenge of getting fresh water, and the lack of sanitation, the Sassi was considered to be "the shame" of Italy. That all changed when the government removed the residents to modern-day housing in the 1950s. (That's a whole other story.)

The centuries-old village was abandoned until it became renovated and generated a huge tourism industry. The Sassi was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and has been described as "one of the most unique landscapes in Europe."

Let's take a look below.

Looking into Sasso Barisano from the cliffs of Matera above

There is evidence that people were living here as early as the year 7000 BC so it's suspected to be among the first human settlements in Italy.

The name "The Sassi" is given to the houses dug into the limestone rock itself. Locally the rock is called "tufo" but it's not volcanic tuff or tufa.

The streets in some parts of the Sassi often run on top of other houses. The ancient town grew up on one slope of the ravine created by the Gravina river the location of which you can infer from the greenery on the right in this photo.

It's not actually a river anymore, but a seasonal stream.

This side of the Sassi is called Sasso Caveoso

There was always lack of proper sanitation - as we would see it today - because of the limited access to running water.

Residents relied on collecting rainwater and fetching water from public fountains, which were often located far away. There was no sewage system so waste disposal was haphazard, leading to contamination of their area and the spread of tuberculosis and other respiratory illnesses. Open sewage ditches and overflowing cesspools were common.

On top of that, there was poor drainage and frequent flooding.

Standing up at the top of the cliff in Matera there are often big winds - and one can imagine the stench that was carried from down below on the air currents.

Map showing the two Sassos - Barisano basically means "above the chasm"

It became so bad that in the 1950s, the government of Italy forcefully relocated most of the population of the Sassi to areas of the developing modern city.

Filled by extreme poverty and riddled with malaria, the unhealthy living conditions were considered inhuman. The cave dwellings were prone to dampness due to the lack of ventilation and natural light and this fostered mold growth, contributing to their health issues.

However, some chose to remain living in the same houses of their ancestors of 9,000 years ago.

The government's moving of the population - on the one hand - might seem compassionate. However, it disrupted the close-knit community spirit, and residents found it difficult to recreate the same level of connection and support in the new, often unfamiliar environment of modern life.

Moving away from the caves meant leaving behind a unique way of life and cultural traditions that had been passed down for centuries. This led to a sense of cultural loss and identity crisis.

(Think of the displacement of other indigenous peoples and how it affected them.)

Another map showing unique tourist sites in the Sassi

The relocation from the Sassi to modern housing was a complex process with both positive and negative consequences.

Sure, it improved their living conditions offering better sanitation, running water, sewage systems and ventilation. And they were brought closer to healthcare facilities, providing them with better access to medical care. All of this led to a dramatic improvement in residents' health and well-being.

However, adapting to a modern lifestyle often meant facing higher costs of living, which created financial hardship for some families.

As with anything, some thrived in the new environment, and others struggled to adapt. You can see this same set of personal responses even in today's world.

The situation is complex and nuanced.

While the hardships of pre-renovation life are undeniable, some residents also hold dear memories of the strong sense of community and cultural heritage that defined their time in the caves.

Another look at Sasso Barisano from the cliff at Matera

These days, the regeneration of the Sassi is promoted. With the aid of the European Union, the government and UNESCO, there are now many thriving businesses, pubs, and hotels located in the Sassi.

This, too, has discombobulated the populace.

Some of them take the perspective of "Tourists! Yay! We'll give you services and with a smile and make money!!"

While others seem to be resentful. "GRRRR.... you are invading our town," which is somewhat true.

Daily we see a dozen tour groups of 20-30 people each wandering the streets of Matera with a leader who holds up some kind of marker or flag so the group knows who to follow.

The streets where they walk have shops with higher pricing than elsewhere in town, and when the tour group goes to a restaurant, they simply fill the place up.

Something feels unnatural about it.

It's not like individual tourists perusing the area on their own. It's more like a mass invasion of international strangers gawking at what used to be a way of life.

The street in Passion of the Christ where Jesus carried his cross to Golgotha

The Sassi look similar to ancient sites in and around Jerusalem, and for this reason they have been used in many Christian-themed films, including The Gospel According to St. Matthew (1964), The Passion of the Christ (2004), The Nativity Story (2006) and Ben-Hur (2016).

There were other films which featured the Sassi in one way or another. For instance, Wonder Woman, No Time to Die, and The Secret of Altamura.

This unique landscape is very appealing for many reasons.

Billy and Akaisha on the Matera ledge overlooking The Sassi

The primary language of the residents of the Sassi was Italian, although they probably had their own dialect.

It's hard to determine what they spoke during the Bronze and Iron ages, because there are limited written records from that time, and they are difficult to decipher.

Morning light on this section of housing

From the modern town of Matera there are signs directing tourists on how to enter the Sassi.

Here we are in the morning walking along the cobblestone path that you can see in the lower right hand side of the photo.

This initial section is fairly easy to walk, but as we got further into the cave neighborhoods, the steps were worn, slippery and steep. Of course there are no hand rails and some of the areas are daunting.

One must be sure-footed and wear good, solid shoes.

Signs directing tourists at this entryway

There are several entranceways into the Sassi. This one is located right at the bluff that gives the greatest view of the whole area.

But there are other ways to begin your walk into this ancient village.

Billy and I climbed, slid and wobbled around this remote community from different points along modern Matera. Every day we'd choose a different passageway, giving us different perspectives of the mountain cave town.

Lights coming on in the early evening

This is a very romantic photo idea when the electric lights begin to turn on deep in the gorge.

But back in the old days, lighting was limited, coming from oil lamps or candles.

A favorite tourist spot

Our apartment in Matera isn't far from here, so we saw this view daily. One evening there was a man playing local music that was so enchanting, it lifted us away.

Crowds gathered and - putting aside all the hardships that living below required - one could simply fantasize over the beauty of the scene.

In reality, there was considerable overcrowding in these neighborhoods. Families often shared small spaces, leading to cramped living conditions. And because they were so poor, they bore social stigmas from wealthier parts of the city.

Today, with the city all cleaned up, it presents a fantasy easy to slip into.

The fully lighted evening

The people here had strong bonds, sharing resources and helping each other during times of need. They used their ingenuity to survive.

 They dug cisterns for water storage, raised small animals for food, and adapted their living spaces for efficiency.

Ways of celebrating together were crucial to their way of life.

The Gravina

This view gives you an idea of the steepness of the gorge and shows you the hardship of obtaining essential water for the residents from the Gravina.

Historically, the Gravina was much larger, however, over time, the flow of the river has diminished significantly.

There has been deforestation in the surrounding areas thereby reducing the water catchment leading to less water reaching the Gravina.

Upstream dams and water usage for agriculture have also contributed to the reduced flow downstream.

Inhabitants primarily relied on collecting rainwater during the wet season.

They also utilized cisterns carved into the rock, barrels and other containers.

These were a very resourceful people.

Inside the Sassi

Walking around inside the Sassi you can see the carved archways and various cave dwellings these natives lived in.

Because water was so precious, it was rationed and shared between them. Priority was given to drinking and cooking. Washing and sanitation followed.

The caves were small, so keeping large animals wasn't common in this town. Some families might have kept smaller animals like chickens, rabbits, or goats for milk, eggs, or meat.

These animals would likely be kept in the caves with the residents or possibly in nearby shelters.

Another view of the Gravina

This photo gives you a clearer view of what living in this town was like.

Steep steps to get from dwelling to dwelling, and the arduous climb up and back from the river below.

The rock of the caves provided a natural layer of insulation helping retain heat generated from inside.

Fireplaces and wood-burning stoves were the primary sources of heating, using firewood gathered from nearby areas.

People living here layered their clothing with thick wool made from sheep or goats and it was essential for retaining body heat.

Another common practice to share body heat was sleeping close together, especially for families.

A full sunlit view of The Sassi

Due to the limited space, lack of proper sanitation facilities, and scarcity of water, maintaining cleanliness in the Sassi presented unique challenges.

Residents used brooms made from natural materials like straw or twigs to sweep dust and debris from the cave floors. And they whitewashed their walls with a mixture of lime and water. This helped to brighten the space, reflect some heat, and potentially have a mild disinfecting effect.

However, due to the scarcity of water, cleaning was done as sparingly as possible. They might use water collected from condensation or saved from other activities for washing essential items and personal hygiene.

Waste disposal was another matter. Because of the lack of proper sewage systems, waste disposal within the caves presented significant health risks. Residents might discard waste in designated areas outside the caves or use chamber pots which would then be emptied outside the settlement.

We were told by locals that many simply tossed the waste into the street, having the rain or wind disperse it over time.

Church of St. Pietro Caveoso

This church of St. Peter is called a Rupestrian church because it is carved directly into the existing rock cliffs.

There are over 150 churches in this town and they were built over a long period, with the earliest examples dating back to the 7th and 8th centuries.

Religion played a significant role, offering solace and hope in difficult circumstances. Natives could identify with the suffering, pain and sacrifice taught in some of the Christian sects, and so these churches served as important cultural and spiritual centers.

Another rupestrian church

Here's a look at another rupestrian church and it is clear to see how it is carved into the existing rock itself.

Over time, this formed a unique and historically significant landscape.

A Bed and Breakfast

This modern-day bed and breakfast was most likely a cave dwelling from previous times. It has been modified with running water, electricity and present-day plumbing.

We found out that the number one thing to do in Matera or the Sassi was to stay in a cave.

To us, the idea of it was more romantic than the actual reality.

There is little natural light, and we could feel the "heaviness" of the rock surrounding us. Having good, fresh airflow was also a challenge.

A contemporary restaurant

The restoration of the Sassi has led to a significant increase in tourism. This has created economic opportunities for various sectors like hotels, cafes, restaurants, and tourist shops which benefit directly from tourism spending.

There are now tour companies, taxi and shuttle services, and car rentals all seeing increased demand.

Local businesses such as artisans, souvenir vendors, and other places selling unique products also have benefitted from tourist interest.

And of course, the tourism industry has created employment opportunities for locals as well.

All of this comes at a cost of losing the initial culture and traditional way of doing things.

As you know, everything has a trade-off.

Another restaurant not yet set up for the day

Here is another restaurant which hasn't quite set up for the day.

Places like this employ locals and brings income to the families here.

Another view of the town with wider paved streets

In "the old days" some families might have grown vegetables or raised small animals here. But most likely, residents frequented markets in the nearby town of Matera to purchase essential food items like grains, bread, olive oil, and other staples.

They also bartered for essential goods and services within the community or with neighboring villages. They most likely exchanged skills, products they made, or surplus items from their limited personal supplies.

Apparently many residents of the Sassi did work in the town of Matera, contributing to the local economy in various ways.

They sold their products and worked as informal laborers such as domestic service or construction.

The Sassi at night

Unfortunately, due to limited education and lack of formal qualifications, many residents faced restricted opportunities.

The government physically moving them out of their home villages gave them proximity to modern amenities and improved living conditions.

And this process could have potentially facilitated access to education and employment opportunities outside the traditional informal economy.

But as mentioned before, this movement of humans from what they culturally knew and lived had to have been difficult for some.

It's hard to know for sure, as there are as many stories as there are people involved.

It would be fascinating to get an even closer look at how all of these changes came about.

Over time, as the Sassi residents eventually integrated into the broader Italian society and formal education system.

Certainly, Matera and The Sassi are worth a visit. And now that you know the back story, you will be able to view this unique place with a curious perspective of human history.

Retire Early Lifestyle appeals to a different kind of person – the person who prizes their independence, values their time, and who doesn’t want to mindlessly follow the crowd.

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