Retirement; like your parents, but way cooler
In 1991 Billy and Akaisha Kaderli retired at the age
of 38. Now, into their 4th decade of this
financially independent lifestyle, they invite you
to take advantage of their wisdom and experience.
Billy and Akaisha Kaderli
Mexico has large
attractions like the
Conquistador Hernan Cortez built in the 1500s,
Naval Museum and even the
trading port itself.
But on a smaller scale,
this city offers
coffee shops and
The Gran Cafe del Portal,
founded in 1808, was purchased in 1926 by a Spaniard named Don Pepe who was a
baker by trade.
The Gran Cafe was formerly
a cafe, then a candy store, then a pastry shop.
These days, people from all
over the world come to sample the Cafe Lechero, a coffee drink invented by Don
The building of the Gran
Cafe del Portal
Don Pepe is credited with
the invention of the Café Lechero, a coffee beverage that is mixed at your table
while they typically make noise with a spoon and a glass when it’s served.
This is a ritual
reminiscent of the olden days when the city train traveled the busy streets of
the port and its drivers would ring a bell to let the restaurant know they would
pass by and should have their coffee ready for pick up.
Today, waiters in white
jackets pour your hot milk while standing up so the foam piles high.
Polished silver coffee containers
Waiters use these smaller stainless steel pots to
pour coffee and milk at your table.
There is seating outside under the shady
arcade or go inside the dining room with copper columns and beamed ceilings for
The Gran Café del Portal
has an ongoing rivalry with the Gran Café de la Parroquia as to which place
serves the real lechero.
Both are famous.
Inside the cafe
In the center left of the photo you will see
some traditional Jarocho dancers.
Jarocho is southern rural music that has
driving rhythms of musicians playing unique regional guitars and harp.
The hard stomping of Jarocho dancers is a bit
The most famous Jarocho song is "La Bamba"
which made it into the top music charts in the States.
Today, the third generation of the Don Pepe
family proudly cares for this classic cafe and their long-established customs
that their grandfather began.
Cafe del Portal serves Mexican and Latin
cuisines plus Cafe specialties.
The menu has lots of dishes from
Veracruz, including a delicious huachinango a la veracruzana (red snapper
simmered in tomatoes, onions, garlic, green olives, and capers).
They also serve an affordable weekday lunch
special which includes a soup or salad and a meat dish.
The whole atmosphere of the Gran Cafe is one
of history, family, music, and established patterns.
If you like a look into the "old style of
Veracruz" enjoy a coffee or meal here.
Cafe Americano, Capuccino, Watermelon
We visited here several times just for coffee
and the atmosphere.
Next time for sure we'll have a meal.
Would we return?
Cafe del Portal
Open daily, breakfast, lunch, dinner, brunch
and late night - Opening hours 07:00 - 11:00pm
Av. Independencia at Zamora
1187 Centro Histórico
91700 Veracruz, Mexico
Tele: 229 931 2759
For more stories and photos
about Veracruz, Mexico,
For more stories and photos about Mexico
About the Authors
Early Lifestyle appeals to a different
kind of person – the person who prizes their
independence, values their time, and who doesn’t
want to mindlessly follow the crowd.
Retire Early Lifestyle Blog
About Billy & Akaisha