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We
caught the 5 a.m. bus from Marquelia to Puerto Escondido
paying 200 Pesos per person for the 5 hour trip. From
town we paid a taxi 20 Pesos to drop us off on
Zicattela beach where we had reservations for a week at
Hotel Las Olas.
View
of the quaint town from a higher vantage point
Or at
least we thought we had reservations!
Even
though I spoke with Zazie, the owner, the day before by
phone, and she had confirmed our reservations both
verbally and by email, when we arrived at 10 a.m., none
of her staff knows anything about
our stay. The room we
wanted wouldn't be available until later on that week,
and on top of that, they wanted to charge us more than what was
quoted earlier via
email.
This
was an unsettling start to what was supposed to be a
rejuvenating stay in a favored place.
Clear
blue skies, groomed beaches and sapphire seas make
Zicatela an attractive beach destination
Eventually, after a bit of tug-and-pull with the
employees at the desk, the boss was called and voila! An empty
room for us appears.
Our hotel is clean, convenient and an obvious value at
the 300 Peso price for fan room (now 800Pesos for air
con room), but the owners are
known for their prickly attitude and their lack of
communication skills with employees.
Mosaic tiled table and chairs beckon for customers to
come in to this little seaside bistro.
Development has been explosive since we were here a year
ago, and artistically expressive cafes, restaurants and
shops now line a newly finished main road which is done in
attractively designed pavers.
Girl with
surfboard crosses Calle del Morro
Serious
surfers still flock here to Zicatela because the
waves are perfect for board riding. A year ago the road
ended right here at the attractive Hotel Arco Iris and
turned into sand. Now it follows through another half mile with more hotel
options,
restaurants and shops lining both sides of the road.
And the building continues. Our guess is that this
persistent construction is going to attract a greater
number of visitors making this area more
upscale.
Playa Zicatela is now
more upscaleI
t's
a captivating, clean town but now it leans towards a
tourist beach-and-surf theme rather than reflecting the
local lifestyle of the Mexicans.
A
typical surf shop that rents boards and has all the
paraphernalia needed for the perfect ride
Development and growth is always a double edged sword.
Tourists bring in cash flow that's good for business and
improves the lifestyle choices of local residents. On
the other hand, the authentic culture can be overwhelmed
by the monolithic influx of internationals.
Restaurants are
everywhere!
Palapa bars and small restaurants dot the entire length
of
Zicatela Beach. The main road is to the left in this
photo with the sea to the right.
Banana dessert
vendor
This,
my friends, is the local culture.
An
independent vendor pushes his cart through the streets
and sidewalks of town selling his roasted platanos.
You know he is coming because he blows his whistle which
sounds a bit like a train in the distance.
Employees working in the shops run out quickly to
purchase this tasty native treat.
Platanos on the
grill
The
plantain-style bananas are freshly roasted over the
coals in his moveable grill which he pushes from place
to place. Plantains are a little thicker and tougher
than bananas but still sweet so they are often roasted
or deep fried as chips.
So far, individual vendors are still allowed
to sell their offerings and have not yet been asked to
cease business by the larger restaurants and cafes.
Notice the pavers done in appealing designs in the road.
Plantains on a
plate
After
sufficient roasting, this special style of hearty banana is cut into pieces and drizzled with fresh
crema and sweetened condensed milk.
This
lady will now take her treat back to the workplace and share
with a friend. Yummy!
The
vast expanse of Zicatela with umbrellas lined up along
the shore
This
is the location where surfers enjoy substantially sized waves.
It is nicknamed the Mexican Pipeline for its similarity
of powerful waves to Hawaii's Pipeline.
Swimmers are encouraged to swim elsewhere as there is a
very strong undertow here.
You have been warned!
We
witnessed a rescue at this beach,
straight out of the TV show Bay Watch, complete with lifeguards jumping
into their quad, blowing their whistles, swimming at an
angle so the undertow would take them directly to the
damsel in distress, through the pounding surf and
sometimes 10 foot waves, and of course, flotation
devices.
Afterwards, the grateful-yet-chastened woman was
instructed on where and why it's best to swim elsewhere.
Outside dining at
local restaurant
After
witnessing all that beach drama it's time to enjoy a
private table view of the sunset at Tio's.
Puerto Escondido is in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, and
one of the specialties of this area is Tinga, or stew. I
ordered the Tinga de Pollo which is a slightly
spicy, slightly sweet, smokey chicken stew served with rice and
black beans, and of course, fresh corn tortillas. Our
very large entrees were served with hot bread and an
appetizer for 45 Pesos per person, or just under $3.50 USD.
To show you how
inflation plays a part, today, that same $3.50USD would
be 70Pesos.
Playa Principal
This
is
Playa Principal which is a pleasant walk north from
Playa Zicatela, and through Playa Marinero which is
where we usually body surf. Playa Principal fills with
the local population on the weekends where families
enjoy the food, the sea and their own company.
Vendor selling
shrimp cocktails
This
vendor walks the beach offering fresh shrimp cocktails
with crackers and salsa for 25 Pesos each cup.
Today, this same cup
runs 40Pesos, about $2USD.
Closer look of
shrimp cocktails
The
shrimp are in clam juice and fresh salsa made from
cilantro, onions, tomatoes and red sauce. With a squeeze
of lime and a touch of Valentino's... Marvelous! Do
try these treats otherwise you will never know what you
are missing.
The
coastal path to Playa Manzanillo
After
that tasty snack we head on to our destination for the
day, Playa Manzanillo.
You
can pick up this
paved walking path just past Playa
Principal and it's a pleasant walk, not strenuous at all.
Beautiful coastal
path
It's
a good way to see the cerulean waters, jagged coastline
and a bit of jungle.
Paved steps on the
path
Some
areas of the walking tour are exciting with the crashing
surf splashing right over the paved areas.
Watch
your step!
A couple fishing
out on the rocks
This
couple are doing a bit of fishing here on the rocks.
Crabs run all along this area and are exposed when the
tide is down.
How
did they get out there? And how will they get back? You
can only reach this destination when the tide is down... The water pool
on the flat surface just to the right of the girl
shows that waves were crashing over this rock
formation earlier.
From
the path looking back towards Playa Zicatela on the
upper right
You
can see that the constructed walkway is in good shape
and blends in well with the natural surroundings.
Billy and Akaisha
taking a break
There
are plenty of places to rest, enjoy the view and
preserve the moment in a photo.
The Possible Dream
Could
this be the title of our next book?
Taking our time it was just over an hour before we
arrived at the end of the trail. Continue past Un
Sueno Posible and take the first left into the beach
area where you will find palapas and restaurants on
gorgeous
Playa Manzanillo.
Perfect beach
scene
Boats, beach towels, comfortable seats and white sand.
Nice,
huh?
Clear water at
Playa Manzanillo
The
water here was FRESH feeling, clean,
clear, no trash at all and
the waves were gentle, lapping at our feet. The beach
drops off suddenly and the water is over your head
before you know it.
Pay
attention - the cabana boys might tell you the umbrellas
are free but you will be expected to purchase something
at their restaurant. Otherwise rent for the umbrella is 50
Pesos a person.
Playa Manzanillo
from a distance
Here's a broader view of the same bay. These sea worn
rocks separate the bay into two distinct areas. Cars and
taxis can service this side.
Colorful umbrellas, boats, restaurants, even a 'banana'
ride. We walked through this beach, continued on the
path to Playa Angelito and
up a steep hill
where we ate
lunch at Mar y Sol. This small restaurant, built into
the cliff, had a spectacular view and good service.
Our
full plate of whitefish with garlic butter, rice and
salad went for 40 Pesos per person.
After
lunch we hailed a taxi. Five minutes and 30 Pesos later
we were back in Zicatela.
Playa Zicatela
In Zicatela
once again, we discover more designer chairs under
canvas shades.
In
the upper right hand corner of this photo, you see the
location of Un Sueno Posible and other hotels we passed
to get to Playa Manzanillo.
One
evening we were walking around the area and some
troubadours asked us where we were from, where we were
staying, and where we were going to eat dinner. Be
careful what you disclose about yourself! People may
appear friendly, but are actually sizing you up.
We
asked to hear a popular ballad, Besame Mucho, and
it was the best duet version we have ever heard of this
song, and heartbreakingly romantic. Later when we tipped
them for their work they became offensive and rude,
because they expected more.
It's
unfortunate that one must be less-than-truthful about
yourself in these situations, but if you are not, you
can find that you have placed yourself in an unwanted
and possibly dicey position.
Beach view
This is the lovely sea view table at Restaurant Elizabeth where we
ordered dinner on another evening.
Sailing, surfing, sun-worshipping, horseback riding,
hiking, swimming, and fine dining. What more could one
want from a beach location?
For more stories, videos and photos of
Puerto Escondido,
CLICK HERE
For more stories and photos of Oaxaca,
CLICK HERE
For more stories and photos of Mexico,
CLICK HERE
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